I was thinking... According to code they imply a maximum of 12 lights or outlets per circuit, or 80% that the fill of 15 amp circuit... Idk if ns am getting perplexed here yet I to be planning to usage slimled 9w 120v lights, 80% that the fill is 12 amps i beg your pardon is approx 1440 watts.. I am looking come put about 22 lights throughout whole basement with a couple of switches... Each light according to mine math would be 9w or 0.075 amps.. So technically I might put all of these lights onto 1 circuit ? in Canada btw.

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The codes have not really caught up v the LED lights however , i think you room fine as long as these space light fixtures with a Led diode and not one LED bulb that might be removed and also replaced v a different form of bulb. Wait and see what Aaron and Wayne need to say ~ above this.
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Yeah in the NEC code for the US, there actually is no border to the number of outlets (which refers to both lights and also receptacles) every branch circuit. You need to make the fill calculation yourself. I think Canada CSA password does have actually a border on the number of outlets every branch circuit - it might be 12 together you say, Wayne would recognize for sure. Either way, friend shouldn"t assume that the lights will always be LED. I would still wire the circuits v the presumption that one old-fashioned 100W incadescent could be screwed in to the socket.Shannon"s best that the password haven"t recorded up through LEDs. I think the still follows a sort of worst-case scenario because that high-wattage lights.
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Jmaclicious wrote:I was thinking... Follow to password they suggest a preferably of 12 lights or outlets every circuit, or 80% of the load of 15 amp circuit... Idk if i am getting puzzled here however I to be planning to usage slimled 9w 120v lights, 80% that the load is 12 amps i beg your pardon is approx 1440 watts.. Ns am looking come put around 22 lights throughout whole basement v a few switches... Every light follow to mine math would certainly be 9w or 0.075 amps.. For this reason technically I could put every one of these lamp onto 1 circuit ? in Canada btw.
If your circuit has actually ONLY lighting, then you space not bound come the "12" gadgets rule.As Shannon said, you have to calculate the wattage of the fixture, no the light. Ie. If the fixture states maximum 100Watts ... That"s what you need to calculate.Many the the more recent LEDs (don"t accept typical bulbs) space rated really low .... So you deserve to put A most them on the circuit.If girlfriend put even 1 receptacle top top this circuit ... You"re back at the 12 max tools thou !
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With AFCIs being essential now in most areas it make sense to store lighting circuits and also receptacle circuits be separate IMO.
Yes, agreed... I would always keep lighting different from receptacles. That means you have actually the freedom to have just two or three lighting circuits in your whole house, and run lock in through low-cost 14/2.I can see some time later on where us may also run LED-exclusive light circuits with 16/2 or even 18/2, linked to a 10A or 5A breaker.
Shannon wrote:With AFCIs being essential now in most locations it make sense to keep lighting circuits and also receptacle circuits separated IMO.
Most men are wiring that way now. Saves on an AFCI breaker ... Also, exhilaration detectors should be operation off a bright circuit. If the circuit has AFCI, you either should run a different circuit to it, or have actually the exhilaration det v battery backup.
I think smoke/CO detectors ought to have their own specialized plain breaker with 14/3 operation from the panel to the very first detector and daisy-chained to every one under the line. You need that third red conductor because that alarm interconnection. The red wire remains stubbed in the breaker panel for future add-on alarm interconnection.
Aaron wrote:I think smoke/CO detectors chandelier to have their own committed plain breaker through 14/3 run from the panel to the an initial detector and daisy-chained to every one down the line. You need that third red conductor for alarm interconnection. The red wire remains stubbed in the breaker panel because that future add-on alert interconnection.
I think they space usually put on a light circuit so that if the breaker trips for some reason you will be conscious of it sooner and also get the difficulty fixed . If they room on over there own and also tripped the breaker for part strange factor you might not also realize it and they will certainly not it is in activated.

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Oh, that"s actually a very good point.Most contemporary ones will sound or display an alert or something if they do not have actually AC power, and also I think every AC-wired ones have actually a 9V battery backup. Yet yeah, they take it hardly any AC strength at every so tapping them off a irradiate circuit is actually no a bad idea and really nudges the homeowner to take treatment of the circuit quite than simply ignoring it--as civilization tend to do.