As a rule, vintage bag watches space either key-set, pendant-set (stem-set), lever-set or pin-set. The easiest way to call which one you have actually is to look because that the setting lever. If your watch is lever-set, there will certainly be a setting-lever clearly shows somewhere around the dial the the watch, despite you usually have to remove the bezel and also crystal to see it. Just due to the fact that your case has a notch cut for a lever, doesn"t median that you have a lever-set watch, as many situations could accommodate one of two people a lever-set or pendant-set movement. Look because that the actual pointer of the setting lever, which must be visible poking the end at the edge of the dial. If her watch has a little button or raised bump somewhere near the winding stem, climate it"s most likely a European-made pin-set watch.

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Key-Set pocket Watch

As the name suggests, a key-set pocket clock is set with a key. Some watches usage the same crucial to collection and wind the watch; rather have different keys for setup and winding. If your watch has actually two keys, then it"s crucial to determine which key best fits each winding arbor. Making use of a an essential that is too large will soon round off the square corners the the winding arbor and then you"ll have a lot bigger fix problem. If girlfriend don"t have actually keys for your watch, a watchmaker who specializes in vintage repairs deserve to probably it is provided one because that you. We have complete sets of winding keys available on our Watch accessories page. We also stock solitary keys in select sizes.

Setting a watch with a crucial is completed by transforming the arbor the carries the hands. Never ever attempt to collection the watch by moving the hands directly... You"ll just break the hand. If your center arbor is square in shape, then you have a key-set watch.s as soon as setting, save the vital perpendicular to the dial and also make sure you don"t harass the horizontal alignment that the hands. The minute hand and also hour hand should remain perfectly flat and parallel after ~ you"re finished setting the watch.

There"s a factor why watches progressed from key-setting to pendant-setting: a pendant-set watch was a lot simpler and an ext convenient because that the common user. Key-set watches have the right to be inconvenient and also sometimes challenging. Often setting a key-set watch needs removing or opened the bezel to accessibility the hands and setup arbor. That is certainly easier because that the novice to damages the bezel, crystal, hands or dial v a key-set clock than with a pendant set. Together such, we typically don"t introduce key-wind key-set the town hall for everyday use.

Some key-set watches have actually the setup square for the hands available through a hole in the case-back. If there space 2 feet in your inner case-back, climate the facility hole is for setting the watch, and the external hole is because that winding.


Illustration of setup a Waltham P. S. Bartlett key-set clock in coin-silver case. Note that top top this watch, the setting square is accessed native the former of the watch. Part key-set watches are accessed from the back.

Pendant-Set bag Watch

The component of the watch situation that hold the winding crown and also stem is referred to as the pendant. The winding crown (or winding knob) is attached to one finish of the winding stem and also the other finish of the stem engages with the winding mechanism in the clock movement. Once the crown is pushed "in" i.e. Toward the watch movement, climate the watch is in winding position and turning the crown will certainly wind the mainspring. Once the crown is traction "out" i.e. Far from the clock movement, the the clock is in setting position and transforming the crown will interact the setting mechanism the the watch.


Illustration of setting a Hamilton pendant-set pocket watch

Common troubles with Pendant-Set Watches

If your pendant-set clock won"t "hold" in either the winding or setting position i.e. If that won"t "click" indigenous one position to the other, climate you likely have actually a damaged sleeve. The sleeve is a small component which mounts within the pendant of the watch and grips the stem through 4 small spring "fingers". If these small spring fingers become bent or broken, climate they will no longer host the stem in the exactly position. The just solution is to replace the broken sleeve.

If the clock clicks smoothly in between winding and setup positions, yet you quiet can"t collection the watch, climate you either have actually a lever-set watch (see below) or over there is one internal difficulty with the winding/setting mechanism. Often, old dried up grease can freeze the winding/setting mechanism and also it bring away a thoroughly cleaning and also re-lubrication to get every little thing moving again.

Lever-Set pocket Watch

Lever-setting to be a "feature" of countless higher-grade bag watches i beg your pardon prevented lock from being accidentally set to the incorrect time. Lever-setting was a need for rail Timekeeping Service. We"ve provided photo accuse for how to set your lever-set clock here.


Illustration that a lever-set clock with setup lever pulled out

Common problems with Lever-Set Watches

Lever-setting mechanisms often tend to be fairly reliable, as they perform not depend on the proper functioning of a stem and sleeve. Pulling the end the setup lever commonly shifts the winding system so the it engages through the cannon-pinion and hands that the watch to enable setting. Retracting the setting lever allows the winding system to rock ago to the "normal" position in which that is engaged with the mainspring barrel. If pulling the set-lever on her watch doesn"t put it in setting mode, or if there is any significant resistance to pulling the lever out, climate there"s something dorn internally that would require experienced service.

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Pin-Set bag Watch

Pin-Setting (or nail-setting, as it is occasionally called) is another setting mechanism that is seldom seen ~ above American watches, but occurs an ext commonly on european timepieces. Top top a pin-set watch, over there is a small button, usually near the winding stem. You need to press and also hold this button while turning the crown to collection the watch. Pin-setting isn"t an extremely common on higher-grade watches.